Surf Into Summer: The Originals
Raglan
we’d searched for places
as would throw us
clean and peeling waves
to run for miles
rising, falling
then this wild edge
with surging walls
that seemed to carry all of history
they clamoured at the coast
in sun-shot mist and foam
save only round a point of rocks
it drew their waters
into full and flaring caverns
even gods would dream
to sport amongst
in early worlds
ours was the chance
we took it breathless
all the start, working surfaces
until we’d nerved ourselves
then cut back deep
through bottom turns
to drive the inside faces
broke out flaunting
on the hanging crests
suspended
while our bodies
learned a song of ancient mysteries
for we are lucky
as were any of the young
who ever lived
and surfed the place into our bones
- Campbell Ross
One of the original surfers of The Point
Photo of The Originals was taken on a Saturday in February 1962, some of the original surfers of The Point at Manu Bay: Richard Carr, Peter Stevenson, Peter Miller, Mike Styles and Campbell Ross. Others in the group that surfed The Point on the Sunday were: Gerry (Geraldine) Bodie, Mike Court, Grant Griffiths, Rex Cochrane, Peter Stevenson, John Bonner, Tony Crosby, Billy Foster, Ces Marsh and Peter Carr.
Poem, photograph and caption on display in the Surfing Exhibit at the Raglan Museum, located in the i-site.
Originally published on 19 November 2015 in the Raglan Chronicle